How to conceal dark circle #1
Dark circles under the eyes are a ‘beauty pain in the ass', whether you're a guy or a girl!
It's a touchy subject and a serious preoccupation: no one wants to live with them, everybody hates them and not many people know how to properly disguise them.
As far as I know, there are two types of dark circles that appear under our eyes:
- The 'ugly ones'☞ that make us look old, tired and worn out
- The sexy ones that intoxicate me so much, I’m forced to sleep with their owner. They give strength and character to the face and are even more erotic when accompanied by bags.
Sadly, this is not an X-rated post and, you’ve guessed it, they are simply ‘not pretty’. Trust me, camouflaging dark circles is a tricky job – you can’t just cut them out with a cookie cutter!
We need to take into account:
☆ the condition of our skin around our eyes. If your skin's dry or wrinkled, opt for a fluid concealer, as it won't further exaggerate the shadows.
Before you apply a concealer to your eye contour, your skin needs to be well moisturized and nourished. And it’s best to carefully massage it in (using a shiatsu technique), as this will de-congest, drain and smooth your skin. You'll immediately look wide-eyed!
Make sure you don't have too much oil on your skin: don't apply a face oil beforehand, as it will dissolve on contact and clog any lines and wrinkles, making them even more apparent.
And if your circles are really bad - very dark or your skin's dehydrated/dry/wrinkled - you may want to apply an eye contour mask or patch beforehand.
- Masque contour des yeux anti-fatigue Clarins make one that gets rid of signs of tiredness - great if you're heading out to a glitzy party or dinner at the Ambassador's residence.
- Masque froid contour des yeux 95, Maria Galland, as with the Clarins' version, Maria Galland's mask refreshes and moisturizes the eye contour area and gets rid of signs of fatigue.
- Masque contour des yeux lissant express retinol by Shiseido perfectly smooths out signs of aging.
☆ The color of your dark circles should determine the color of the concealer you use. The color you choose needs to both neutralize your dark circles and blend in with your skin tone. It may sound fussy, but the last thing you want is to look like an amateur You Tube user doing a really bad Kim K impression.
It's best to go for a tone that's a bit lighter than your skin, as this will brighten your look. Note: I said "a bit lighter" - if you use one that's too light, it'll make your circles look gray and even uglier. .
● if your dark circles are purplish, apply a yellow tone concealer
● if your dark circles are bluish or dark brown, go for an apricot tone
●if you have an Anglo-Saxon 'peaches and cream' complexion, choose a pink tone
If your dark circles are really bad, you can start with a color corrector, which will help to neutralize them; as with a concealer, you'll need to choose a tone suited to the color of your dark circles.
'Color correcting' is the latest trend and I'm expecting it to take over the make-up world. As with contouring, it's not new, but it does require a 'professional touch', which I'll explain in detail in a future post.
☆ The texture you use is important and depends on the condition of your skin and how much you need to cover.
If you don't have really dark shadows, opt for a fluid texture, which will give you a light covering and brighten your look, thanks to the reflecting pigments these concealers contain.
● Touche Eclat by YSL is perfect for very light circles (or none at all), as it immediately brightens the complexion.
● Voile Correcteur Yeux by Shiseido works on slightly darker circles. It's moisturising, but only comes in three shades, which is a bit of a bummer.
● Accord Parfait Touche Magique by L'Oréal moisturizes and brightens the eye contour area. It covers well and is great if you want to look wide awake after a night on the tiles.
If your dark circles are pronounced, apply a heavily pigmented, creamier concealer, so as to neutralize any dark discoloration. Beware of pencils or cake concealers! If your skin isn't smooth and well moisturized it will only worsen any imperfections - wrinkles, fine lines, dry skin...
● Retouche Haute Précision by Armani has a smooth, light texture but still manages to erase dark circles, whilst brightening the complexion. And its applicator brush means you can apply exactly the right amount!
● Anti-Cernes Eclat, by Nars is one of my favorites. It totally erases dark circles, is easy to apply and is ultra-light. Plus there's a choice of 15 colors - what more could a girl want? If your dark circles appear to have all the colors of the rainbow, you can always apply two colors to get perfect coverage. Just make sure they don't appear 'dry and cakey': it's not often the case, but is so not a good look.
●Phyto-Cernes Eclat by Sisley is Alex's BFF: it's easy to use, subtle, covers well and brightens your eyes. It may feel thick to the touch, but it really smooths out skin and perfectly erases dark circles. But there are only 4 shades, which is a drag!
●Effacernes by Lancôme is similar - nice coverage, beautifully light, good moisturizing action. It's as good as the other two.
●Correcteur de Teint by RMS Beauty also work well, but go for the 'Clean and Green' range. For best results, you should apply them with a small brush.
I'm also going to put my money on Aqua Luminous Perfecting Concealer by Becca. I've not tried it yet, but as the brand's former global make-up artist, I can tell you it'll be worth its weight in gold!
So there you have it... choosing/using a concealer isn't always as easy as pie and takes quite a bit of effort!
Feel free to ask me if you have questions, and come back quickly with the application tutorial.